EvilPeppard,

Thanks for the complement. Puffman may not like it, but I have forgot more about cars that most Nissan engineers ever knew (how's that for arrogance). I used to be a corporate manager at GM and I've read thousands of automotive publication spanning about 30 years. I've also had numerous big-block musclecars, and a first place show car. Not bragging, just stating the facts. In fact, I know enough about cars to know that I'll never know everything about cars.  In fact, I'll never know 10% of what there is to know I guess. There's just way too much out there.

That's some interesting info about your gas experience. I will be doing more research about the capabilities of Titan engine to manage octane. There is no doubt there is a big payoff with Maximas in performance, and it seems Nissan has made the Titan to trucks what the Maxima is to front drive V6 sedans. In fact, I've been telling folks about how it runs and calling it the Maxima of the trucks. This thing actually posts as good a quarter mile as my 5-speed 97 Maxima......amazing.

Regarding the oil change intervals......they are a heuristic (rule-of-thumb). I had a buddy in high school (just one, that figures, right?) who put a big block in a 68 Vette. His dad successfully campaigned a 427 Camaro in the super stock class (10 sec et to about 130 mph quarter, good in the eighties). He pulled out the dipstick one day while I was standing there. I asked him when he was going to change the oil. He said: "when it gets dirty." I sure got a good laugh out of that....but he was entirely serious.

In fact, that is when to change the oil, but that will be different depending on the vehicles age and condition, oil type and brand, and driving conditions. Generally newer engines can run even base petroleum oils more than 3k and be ok as long as it is no more than 50% around town driving. But as they get older the maintenance should be more frequent because the oil gets broken down quicker by the by-products of combustion that get into it. Shorter drives with more cold starts worsen the problem (most contaminants enter before the engine gets warm). The detergents in oils can only hold so much stuff before they become thick and bake on to the inside of the engine clogging up oil galleries. Plus, constant heating and cooling breaks down the molecular structure of the oil from a lubrication standpoint. Since a concerted analysis of all these variables for each vehicle/driver situation would be next to impossible, a 3k heuristic is common. This is definitely a conservative stance. Probably does help out the oil cartell a little. However, I believe it is the safest approach, and since the additional expense is minimal, it is one that I adhere to personally.

You mentioned doing your initial change at 500 miles. That is another good move. Back in the middle 80s I built a 600hp pump gas 454 for a Chevelle I had. The guy that did the engine was by far the best builder in the area. He could take tube steel and sheet aluminum and build a race car from scratch. His personal race car was a 427 side-oiler Mustang punched out to 468 inches. It made about 1000hp or so on racing fuel. When we started my 454 for the first time he told me to take it up the road, get it good and hot, then bring it back and we'd drop the oil. I was like…. "why?" He said the first time the motor got hot it would wear off the permanent tolerances in the engine. So we changed the oil and that was that.

10 years later when I was working at the Saturn division of GM in Spring Hill I bought a new Tahoe. I remembered what my engine builder had said years ago and dropped the oil after 200 miles (I meant to right away but procrastinated). It had a magnetic drain plug and there were lots of metal shavings on it. Every time I changed the oil after that (3200, 6200, etc.) there were no shavings on the drain plug. The reason why this happens is because the crank, rods, wrist pins, etc., etc. are all machined cold. When they heat up they change shape just a little. This means that the "natural" tolerances in the engine are established the first time you get it to full operating temperature. Now, with that said, oil must go through your filter before it enters your engine. So that stuff should be stopped there, but it is possible, since metal slivers can be sharp, for it to pierce the filter and make it to your bearings. This chance is remote however. If you’re a certified car nut like myself, this might be a reasonable precaution. I have to admit though, I waited till 3k on the Armada. Just getting lazy in my old age I guess. See ya.

Throttle

Puffman, you're taking this way too serious. Your first post called into question my reasoning and you made it clear that the manufacturers knew way more than I do so I must be wrong. In fact, you said that this was apparent since the marketing department would obviously take advantage of such a thing and they haven't. I think I have shown your assertions to either be wrong, or coming at the question from the wrong angle. If I have hurt your feelings, then I publicly apologize. Honestly, you are a little ignorant on these issues. That is not saying your stupid. We are all ignorant about a great many things, me included. Cars are just one of the areas I know a little more about than others. BTW, the good thing about ignorance is that it can be fixed.....whereas stupidity is another issue. There is no animosity on my part, and I'm sure you are correct, I can come off a little arrogant at times. My bad. Peace?